Saturday, February 03, 2007

Shortcut to High Fashion

It is no suprise that each spring season, the key focus should be on change. Apart from a new year, we also find that our fairly new interests should be immediately exchanged for something even more fresh. It is a new year, it is inevitable that invite change with arms wide open. Introducing, short shorts! It's all been done before, really. We have seen it all. Yet, there is something rather sectacular about witnessing an abundance of legs and... well, a lack of material to cover them.

Be that as it may, sometimes fashion has the ability to wow, solely by using less fabrics and using what little material they have to sculpt and really accentuate specific areas of a woman's body. Although seemingly contradictory, it is not always how well a designer can cover a woman's body, but how the designer can dress a woman appropriately without using that much fabric at all.

Among these designers, heads the pioneering influence behind perhaps what can be considered a new trend for us all this season: Karl Lagerfeld's sequinsed hot pant. With the introduction of hot pants, who knows? Maybe the new obsession isn't so much focused on your Fendi 'B' bag but your pelvic region. Forget it's trashy image, what a simple way to reinstate the image of sexy right on the woman's pelvic bone. Granted, most do not have the ability to bare their legs to this extreme. After all, a sexy pair of legs should be masked from society, right? I am hoping this trend catches on. The relevance of hot pants in todays fashion world is about as ridiculous as those mary-kate glasses that everyone is wearing. They are absurd but, somehow they work.

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Hats off to fun headgear!

There is a simplistic elegance that fortifies the relationship between a man and his cap. Way back when, it was required that a man make his way through the world with a hat on. When out in the sun, a man would don his cap, regardless of social status. So, it is only in man's best interest that they bring back a part of history that allows for them to express individualism all while maintaining a fashion-conscious mindset.

It is important to realize that men have always fewer choices in the world of fashion. Albeit our extremely recent transition from traditional to nonconforming, we are heading into the forefront of a new era, charged with brighter colors, unique cuts and more cutting-edge fabrics, ultimately designed to give a tired mind a fresh take on menswear. From head to toe, we are slowly changing the look altogether. Why not start with the head?

The over-usage and redundancy of hats on runways is only matched with the lack of hats on the streets... until now. The fashionable men on the streets of NYC are looking for timeless pieces without looking so "old-timer". Yet, menswear has taken a keen interest in a good blend of the classic infused with modern. Thus, the new era of men's hats are born! If the 90's consisted of fitted baseball caps and Kangol newspaper hats, the new millennium brought the fedora, straw or twill. Mocked for its use in the hollywood scene, the fedora can be worn very inappropriately. Given the right clothing choices, it can become virtually impossible to screw up this look.

The fedora has so many functions and can be seasonally appropriate. Whether spring, summer or fall, this choice is seemingly flawless. It's no wonder that in the beginning of the year, people are starting to wear a good summer hat in the dead cold of winter. It just looks that good. Among some of its finer reasons to don a hat is the inexplicable ability to transform a casual ensemble into a cutting-edge outfit eithout looking cocky in the least. Another reason that fedoras play an integral part of fashion these days is becasue they are extremely unisex. Just as appropriate as a fedora is for a man, a woman can pull one off, too.

The key to pulling off a fedora, however, lies in the fact that the entire ensemble has the ability to scream, we just cannot allow for any individual piece to. By this, I am referring to the ever-so-important "keeping it simple" motto. A t-shirt, some great shoes, slim-fitting shorts and perhaps a killer bag. Stick with natural tones. To spruce it up some more, add a very bold colored item. When using this look, it is crucial to pay specific attention to detail, because, with the wrong hat, or slightly odd shoes, you could look more like a crusty jazz musician or a desperate hipster than a man with a killer outfit.

When menswear takes a quick turn from never-noticed to front cover, we should all become aware of its possibility to explode with new choices, infinite uniqueness and originality. We should embrace these trends and allow them to progress and transform themselves into something that we can all benefit from: men who just dress better. And with a hat, that is just one great place to start.

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

The big rush of men's accessories and it's pathetic correlation to that 'Dress to Impress' slogan

I have genereally been anticipating the arrival of many things in life: My first car, my first city apartment, my first ridiculously expensive purchase, etc. I thought of many things that excite me in the realm of fashion and, as any unreasonable college graduate, I turn to the unobtainable items to grasp a hold of. By this, I mean I enjoy the items that not everyone my age can afford. By carrying a bag, what sort of image do I reflect? By wearing those really cool loafers and heading out into town, who will think differently of me, based on my purchase? Ok, now I am starting to sound slightly superficial. Let's get down to the point.

I have eagerly anticipated what is to be considered the biggest rush of men's accessories in the history of high fashion, all within the last decade. An array of shiny necklaces, bracelets and rings, a bandana paired with a leather cuff, a tweed fedora or paper boy cap or perhaps a statement belt with matching shoes. I guess I never realized the intensity to which any given combination could reflect upon my reputation. I am usually a guy who thinks that extreme fashion can be displayed by taking minimal efforts to look good. By accessorizing in the dozens, we are allowing for ourselves to become vulnerable and obvious. Afterall, isn't it obvious why some people try so hard to look the way they do?

A league of gentlemen, ranging from the ages of 20 all the way up have been spotted wearing all too much. Some of it trendy, others exude a classic taste with more traditional accessories. When we think of high fashion, some of us tend to look passed the cool clothes and attitude and run straight for accessories. The simplest compliments from onlookers is usually about an accessory that you have slapped on before heading out of your house. While their is nothing wrong with accessories, a clear distinction must be made between those who bare a seemingly flawless ensemble because of their over usage of accessories and those who regard their look as a gourmet meal: An excellent combination of lavish ingredients with added spices to complete the finishing touches. Accessories, to these people, must become the minor details that one leaves out when dressing themselves. Of course, in certain situations, one wouldn't leave the house complete without the other, however, how one dresses themselves must take on priority before bundling up in accessories.

I have always loved the classic example of the woman donning all too much jewelry. Rich or poor, these women look tacky. It shows a level of insecurity when one tries to impress with too many accessories. Multicolored bags, flashy jems, 18 kt. Gold necklaces and bracelets with bangles and intimidating shoes. I need a minute to breathe to see the way some people dress. I have often heard that you can tell someone's socio-economic status by the way they dress. This is true in a way because nowadays, people who dress in desperation tend to overlook the quality and style while focusing on how much others will perceive it to look authentic and fantastic. A guy with an expensive Rolex watch enters the room and people notice it immediately. This only goes as far as noticing your mailman has a great smile. Character cannot be determined through life's simple pleasures. We should feel thankful that most of us are given an opportunity to prove how well we dress. These days, quality can be found almost anywhere for a decent price. Dressing to impress has, since the old days, become considerably cheaper. Find great pants and a well-fitted shirt, all for under $60! Then if you get the urge to splash a little hardware on your body (your favorite bracelet, a ring or perhaps a belt), you won't feel as guilty.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Dear Mr. Sartorialist...

My widgets on my G4 laptop comes equipped with an English Dictionary. One day, I decided that I would find the definition for 'Sartorial'. I came across this definition:

"Of or relating to tailoring, clothes or style of dress: sartorial elegance."

Upon my discovery of the definition of this word, I became intrigued that the example given to show the word 'sartorial' in context was 'sartorial elegance'. This gave me an engrained image in my head of what YOUR definition of style means (regardless of whether or not this is true). I have been following your work and am envious of your ability to find beauty in the most unimaginable areas of style and dress. The subtle accents, the bright hues of stitching, even perhaps the ways a pair of pants are ruggedly tucked into a pair of wellies. I currently reside in Colorado, so, undoubtedly, my findings are few and far between when it comes to the fashion foreward. Irregardless of what I, myself am able to discover, I fall relentlessly enamored with your irrefutably distinguished taste for fashion and the arts.

For those of you reading this who are not familiar with the Sartorialist, please figure him out. I have seen his work and heard his opinion of the different style choices presented by individuals ranging from old businessmen to women scouring the shelves at Marc Jacobs. The Sartorialist offers the best pictures, comments and suggestions for his search for individuals donning a relatively bizarre, yet mysteriously well put-together ensemble and head out the door.

I must say that I have found myself putting together some interesting combinations to gear away from 'the usual'. I head out the door with a leather belt on my waist over a sportscoat, contemplated the repercussions for wearing my jeans tucked into my boots, even experimenting with alterations to my dresshirts to give them an authentic style twist without seeming too desperate for awkward attention. I am sure anyone who has grown up thinking to themselves, "I want everyone to notice how different I am!", rather than "I don't want to stand out" has succeeded in some form of personal dress that makes them a pioneer in their community as a fashionably-dressed gentleman or lady.

In a way, I am pleased with the way I too, am able to find beauty in the unnoticed as well as the mainstream. Being able to spot the quietly-dressed fashionistas becomes the key to what makes my day. I hope that one day, I will have the pleasure of meeting you for coffee and seeing you get lost in your work. "Why is she wearing that?" "huh, I have never seen that combination before" or perhaps a silent nod with eyes as sharp as a kitchen knife, dissecting each layer to truly understand their reasoning behind their personal style efforts.


Best wishes,

Ken Izawa

The Sartorialist can be found on thesartorialist.blogspot.com, www.thesartorialist.com, gq.com and on style.com, where he offers his expertise on trends, fashion technique and style options for all fashionistas- ranging from the hip and crowded streets of New York, Paris and Milan to backstreets and alleyways where true street style thrives.

Friday, January 05, 2007

The Future of Modern Fashion: Balenciaga

To think fashion is to think innovation by using a blend of unique cuts, styles, patterns and fabrics to produce a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. To some, it may be an old-fashioned belt, timeless as the material made to sustain it's beauty. For others, perhaps it is found in the odd shapes and forms created by artistic fashion visionaries who know fashion enough to predict the future a couple seasons ahead. Call it time travel or call it psychic, these artists are what lead the world into the style of tomorrow. Such a creative mind could rival the clever ways of fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. Ingenious as he is with his talents of producing some of the world's most sought-after Couture designs, Balenciaga was also able to capture the the attention of other designers, inspiring each artist (names such as Oscar De La Renta and Christian Dior) to follow in his footsteps.

He formulated a legacy in the fashion industry, undoubtedly extending his talents of being a fashion visionary into the very mind of the current creativer director of Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière. In 1997, he headed the house of Balenciaga, bringing about a new life form to the fashion label. After the death of Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1972, the house found itself going through a heavy transitional phase. It wasn't until recently that Nicolas Ghesquière brought a fresh take on fashion to a reputable image and classic label in high fashion. Ghesquière has been presenting his version of the skinny pant with the blouson jacket (picture a delicate silk blouse only in jacket form) for the millions of fashion followers to indulge in something new, something eye-opening. He has ever since, been playing with visions of futuristic form combined with his love for the 1980's era. But it doesn't end there, as Ghesquière also incorporates a bold blend of futurism with French Classicism. Looking closely at his collections, one could also see that Ghesquière likes to use somewhat drab colors for his clothing, then spices it up by accessorizing with bold-colored detailing.

There is no doubt that Balenciaga has made its stamp on high fashion as well as street culture and style. You can walk down almost any block and witness similar versions of his original masterpieces. The Balenciaga Motorcycle bag is infamous for it's sleek design and edgy form, giving it the appearance of half bag/ half motorcycle-and-jacket. It is not just recently that Balenciaga carried an immensely futuristic take on high fashion. Back in the day, Cristóbal Balenciaga had been known as "The master of us all", a popular quote by Christian Dior himself. He had experimented with rather strange forms for the female body, nevertheless, had popularized alternative stylings for women who wanted to think outside the box. It was in his innovative designs that he was able to create a full-fledge fashion house that even Jacqueline Kennedy found sensational.

This Spring season (2007), Ghesquière has incorporated his visions of a futuristic dress code, polishing his look to incorporate unique material, detailing with shimmer and glitz, assymetrical dresses, big shoulders, extremely long legs and platforms. Ghesquière also uses a base of black with metallics and white, truly magnifying the the intensity of bold fashion. Metallics (once again) has made an intense impression on the runway!

What is so truly astonishing and wildly ambitious about designer Nicolas Ghesquière is his ability to follow in the footstps of Cristóbal Balenciaga, all while creating the path to a successful future for the design house. We all become uncertain of where art can take us. Whether we find ourselves wallowing in past images of a more simplistic lifestyle or concerned with artform that affects our present, we find it rather difficult to produce an accurate portrayal of the future without seeming too distant or too predictable. With the stylings of artists such as Ghesquière, we are able to see the vision of surreal and realistic fashion, blended into one collection and captivating a truly mixed crowd of the non-fashion as well as fashion savvy.

Thursday, December 28, 2006

... Then again, when is "Faking it" actually cool?

The answer is never. Nope, never. I could not possibly tell you in just a 24 hour time span just how much I detest the counterfeit industry. We live in a world where not only the rich want to look rich, but the less fortunate actually "deceive" others that they, too, have the funds to splurge. Or are we fooled? There is a time when we find ourselves stripped of extra spending money. These times also may bring about the urge to overcompensate for our thrifty lifestyles. So, are most of us subjected to fake, plastic, cheap, imitation, faux, replica, etc, etc., solely to make others think we are living in a life of happy times?

I could wow you with numbers of how much the counterfeit industry pulls in, annually. I am not here to impress, I am here to inform. Why is it that millions of people all over the world walk around with labels to pursue friends, careers, love interests, even a reputation for anything but being poor? I admit, at one time in my life, I had been overwhelmed with the curiousity to purchase a couple items that were just about as Gucci as a flat tire. A colleague and I had ventured to the Big Apple for our very first visit. We encountered skyscrapers, pizza joints and hundreds upon hundreds of fakes. Fake everything. I even recall seeing a fake nylon DKNY mini backpack (about as pointless as buying a pair of fake Banana Republic Chinos). Who are these people? Is there a market for this kind of stuff in America? Who is buying these items and who feels good about sporting a replica of an extremely expensive bag? Oh, and are any of us buying the fact that their stuff is actually real? In Japan, Louis Vuitton stores are swamped with customers during all store hours. They take fashion and name brands to a level of utmost importance. No joke! So, it is no wonder that in countries like Japan, designer replicas are extremely outlawed. You couldn't find it if your life depended on it. So, why should the United States be any different?

Anywhere you go, you will find ways in which less fortunate people try to obtain "surface richness", an image to onlookers that they are flooded to the tip with Benjamins by dressing in a certain manner. The woman with magenta-colored lipstick who shops the bargain bin at Walmart for gold-coated watches and jewelry. Can you smell that cheap perfume? I try not to let it all out, but if you can only close your eyes for a minute and see where I am attempting to take this. It is not pretty. We must force ourselves to look at them from a spectator point of view and realize how desperate it looks to become the counterfeit-clad bimbo that tries (ever so har) to impress.

Fashion stops almost immediately after logo wear. Shirts, bags and shoes showing blatant logos are just about the edge of fashion to wear it almost gets too tacky. It says, "I have taste, but hey, can you blame me? It's designer!" Once we topple into designer imposter, we are creating that permanent tattoo above our foreheads that reads, "I tried, but not hard enough".

Perhaps I am being too critical. I realize that not all of us are able to wear expensive clothing. I do, however, realize that by continuously buying counterfeit items, we are contributing, not only to an industry that breaks the law, but we are also hurting the reputation and credibility of many fashion houses, nationwide. The argument that constantly circulates this case is that designers take money out of us (and a whole lot of it for that matter). What we need to consider is that designers are successful for a reason: They have an image, they have experience, they create art and have a passion for design . If you look at many articles of clothing, accessories, luggage, etc., made by designers, they are created with the utmost precision, often require cutting-edge technology to manifest the creative minds vision onto fabric (Unlike my favorite example of counterfeit, located above: The Infamous "Goach" Pattern). Countless decisions are made to give shape to a wearable work of art. Ahh, the glorious feeling of polished leather and countless hours needed to make the item in your hands (at your very disposal :). What is better than holding something that is soo desired? Not so much if it was made by a little girl in a sweatshop in BFE, China. At times, the leather, not so much leather but pleather where it cracks or peels and the stitching comes right out. Think of your Marc Jacobs Hobo as a Warhol screen print that you are wearing. An artist with a creative vision has sold you his beautifully-decorated canvas for you to wear and tote around!

Ken suggests: Everyone is allowed a splurge once in a while. Why not pick out a classic piece you have been eyeing and save for it? Worse case scenario, it was only one purchase, eBay is always an option to resell it, or you will be stuck with a timeless pair of shoes or a classic coat that will last throughout the ages. Replicas don't impress and are NEVER considered an investment.

Monday, December 25, 2006

Fur: A Fuzzy and Debatable Controversy

Fur, no doubt, has remained the signature of elite fashion for hundreds of years. From a tame trim to a full, robust coat, fur has served more than just an aesthetically pleasing edge. Highly insulating, softness to the touch and the shine and bounce of every strand is almost too much to handle; the most chic accents to any piece used in the fashion industry is undoubtedly created with fur. Yet, with the growing interest in preserving the environment, a number of fashion spectators, stylists and everyone else in between must also preserve their image as an environmental conservationist to keep current with the times. It is not always the case, however, that many fashion icons pursue a greener image. Style icons- Jennifer Lopez, Kate Moss and Cate Blanchett continue to wear fur- whether it be for a photo op or just simply for a shopping trip.

Ok, enough with the seriousness. I hate being told what to wear. I cannot imagine anyone else would like it either. The amount of criticism that these fashion icons receive on a daily basis is enough to drive anyone insane. From a male perspective though, fur tends to be a wardrobe choice few and far between. Of the times I have walked into a luxury department store or scanned the pages of numerous online shops, I rarely find myself gawking at men's fur (if there are any to begin with in the places I look). Apart from a fur-trim hoodied parka, the only other item of clothing made of material originating from animals is leather. Don't get me wrong, it is not the case that I actively participate in the campaigning towards People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. Furthermore, it is not as if I scour the shelves of Ralph Lauren or Roberto Cavalli in the hopes of finding the most lavish, fur coat that merely projects an image that my style choices parallel those of a hustling pimp in a 1970's Pam Grier flick.

I belive that moderation must take the first bite out of the fashion apple. Every other choice thereafter, is (or rather- should be) a personal decision. I am pro-choice for people wearing what they want to wear. It is due to our long history wearing fur and accessorizing with animal skins that really allow us to wear them without hesitation. In a diverse world, we should become accustomed to different ideas presented by various cultures. In the world of fashion, the blending of ideas means incorporating numerous aspects of fashion deriving from every continent to produce innovative fashion trends, sleek variations within one design and fresh renovations of tired, outdated looks. Fur is an option used to produce fresh combinations along with many other materials, even among the dullest of fabrics. I have always admired the way fur can, in the most simplistic manner, create a look of brilliance upon any woman's body. With a coat or accessories painted with fur, we are able to transform the everyday garb into a once-in-a-blue-moon masterpiece.

As for Kate Moss and the numerous celebrities who use fur for fashion statements, even a little can go a long way. Drowned in Sable fur or perhaps mink, the possibility to look chic is limited. With a jacket or a bag as the fur statement or more generally, showcasing tidbits of fur, we witness the numerous ways in which we can make less look like a whole lot more. I continue to applaude the usage of fur in today's fashion industry, of course, in moderation. Moreso, I feel that a vintage piece has the ability to shine more profoundly. A classic cut in even today's most contemporary trends enable a style choice that cannot be found in fur boutiques. Purchasing a vintage fur piece enables you to enjoy fur (at usually a fraction of the price) and not contribute to the growing fur trade industry, which is rapidly rising from a reported $9.1 billion in 2000 right up to $11.7 billion in 2004 (International Fur Trade Federation). Moderation plays no part in the decision making for fur fans around the world.

All in all, we should make decisions wisely. We must decide whether or not the decisions we make will affect our environment as well as our image. Fur is sexy and can be used in very practical ways, however, people who wear too much fur have us questioning their motives: are they dressing for fashion or just to look rich? Is it necessary to perpetuate a cycle that is by no means beneficial to us as it is to animals? It is important to, once again, turn to the rule of moderation, because almost too much of anything is a bad idea.

Friday, December 15, 2006

Ken endorses: The "T-Strap"

Throughout the ages, many shoes have become a solid fashion emblem for previous seasons. One season, boots have taken a whole new light, while patiently waiting, an abundance of newly designed patent leather stacked heels awaits the next season waiting to wow crowds ands photographers in their debut to fashion society. Amidst these trends comes an, oh-so timeless piece that is given the chance to reinvent itself, again and again (the same manner to which Madonna could gracefully reform her image to avoid the redundancy of many performing artists). Sure, many fashion accessories and trends are given an opportunity to regain their popularity, even if it is the 4th year in a row. I speak from the heart when I say that it is only so many times that these trends can be reintroduced before they just seem blatantly dull. Nothing shines anymore. The excitement of a reinvented image of a past trend only comes from the anticipation that any design will not reflect the dull qualities of it's original creation. This is why it is important to make an outstanding statement when coming to reinvention. We must break the boundaries to which we recreate trends. What makes them better? A design put well forward should only move further in the direction of unique and creative while maintaining basic original qualities to give that design the history it deserves. I have been successful in the search of the perfect shoe for the upcoming seasons. This isn't a shoe that premieres in Fashion runways for the upcoming spring season.

The "T-Strap" has been around for hundred of years. T-Straps often are given the innocence and graciousness due to its delicate profile. It's girlish reputation and playful apearance offers this design anything but a tantalizing, lustful, and woman-like robustness. As delicate as the material used to produce this shoe, the T-Strap has been reintroduced from a basic design of leather straps to the extreme complexities that designers often use with embellishments of crystal detailing, fine silks and skillful yet beautiful stitchwork. I have found some designs to spark attention, thought and smiles to my readers. These are just some of the designs that I found to be worthy of mention.

Jimmy Choo's evening shoes has brought on a new meaning of elegance. With particular attention to detailing and brilliance, Jimmy Choo's shoes capture the essence of fashion. He provides not only style but a polished finish to absolutely any evening ensemble. It is without any doubt that he has created a profoundly astonishing masterpiece for his new collection. It only keeps the hopes of many shoe connoisseurs up as we all patiently await what he has in store for us for the fall of 2007!

Gold always maintains its reputable image as chic, classic and never out of style. Here, Fendi has brought back the classic leather T-Strap flats that need no heel to wow crowds. It speaks of simplicity and down-tempo fashion. Beware, its subtleties can often lead people to be unaware of its great potential. Best paired with a clean, crisp sundress, or perhaps stovepipe denim for maximum effect, these T-Strap sandals can really emphasize that sometimes, "less is more".

No shock here that platform is the word when it comes to 'it' shoes of the season. Valentino knows (as shown to the left) he longs for a new heightened image of the T-Strap as he plays with different concepts to create a visually stunning composition of leather, metalware with animal print on a uniquely designed T-Strap platform wedge. He plays with fun, hip, as well as serious tones of fashion to marvel audiences. Valentino, once again, continues to amaze his clients with innovative design under a classic hallmark name for fashion designers.

Although simple, this mid heel quasi T-Strap by John Galliano for Dior is just about as unique as it gets. Another shoe with much attention to detail, these heels give T-Strap a lighter edge. With a light addition to any look, this shoe provides optimum- level comfort with all the right components to induce a vibrant spark as well as a rugged edge, all while maintaining the basic forms of an elegant, lady-like shoe. The charm with an ever-so discrete Dior logo will keep just about any fashion spectator pleased.

With a distinctly different presence than previous shoes mentioned, this T-Strap has opted to stress its reputation as a design that plays on an image of innocence. Frida Giannini, the current designer for Gucci has given this T-Strap sandal its original components of cute and girlish magnificence. These sandals, best paired with a summer suit pant and white dress shirt, can also compliment jeans and a tube top for a playful edge. This sandal can play on many different looks, which also enforces it's ability to become an ageless favorite. From 20 to 70, this shoe is simply a classic of the ages.

Saturday, December 09, 2006

The best look is the best fit. Period.

One of the greatest things about looking great is knowing that you are wearing something that fits. Not only does it compliment your body, it also compliments your character. A great fit and a great look pretty much go hand in hand. Unfortunately, life isn't always that easy. We tend to sway with sizes that squeeze, pinch or discomfort us, even if that means saving a couple extra bucks or even saving time by not searching endlessly for a perfectly-fitted shirt. This makes us and everyone else who does this looking rushed. If there is anything more unattractive than a rushed wardrobe choice, please let me know! I would like my theory to be challenged. Sincerely.

I have spent too many hours of my life watching people make these mistakes. Not once, not twice, but multiple times. The worst part is that they are not able to notice that they are making these excrutiatingly painful decisions. The color looks good, the collar is straight, but what they fail to realize is that they are literally swimming in fabric that could drown them in a sea of continuously disasterous outfits. So, let's say you find the perfect color for your skin type. Great! That is one step towards the right direction. But, why stop there? Why find the color, but not the cut? Ultimately, your decision to buy anything you wear should be based upon a series of requirements that follow an almost identical match to your exact specifications. Confused?

Let's throw it on the table. Ideally, you should become familiar with certain colors that compliment your body and skin tone. Everyone should try on as many colors as possible to become acquainted with different shades, levels of brightness as well as specific hues that tone, accentuate, flatter and promote everything from your character to your physical appearances. Have a friend nearby so that they can offer their own criticism on the colors you have chosen. Try to avoid colors that are too bright or extremely dull. My own personal rule is that I try to steer clear from "undefined colors". By this, I mean colors which I am unable to determine it's exact name. Bluish-purple? That's fine. A combination of orange and green? Probably not. Once you have determined the colors that compliment you, be sure to reference those colors so that when you are out in the search for these colors, you don't have to look through stacks and stacks of shirts, pants, etc. that may not contain your colors. THIS will save you so much time.

The cut of the shirt is extremely important. You MUST (absolute must) figure out your size in everything you wear. Don't have a clue? Go get sized! Most places offer a free sizing so you know (for your own personal records) what your specific measurements are. After getting sized, use your own personal chart as your guide to finding the better fit. Also keep in mind care instructions as well as options for alterations. Will it shrink? Will it stretch? Should I go longer? Can I bring it in a little? By considering the following, you will make the best judgment for any purchase. Above, is a male figure (my apologies, ladies!) with areas measured for specific cuts designed to fit the best for specific body types. Not all, but most are to be considered for measure so that you are able to find your size with ease. Be aware that some items of clothing will only be sized by the standard, most simplistic sizing groups (S, M, L, XL). You must always try these sizes on, as they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, brand to brand as well as from seamstress to seamstress. Never assume it fits.

Paying specifically more attention to shirts, we must rely on so many factors for a perfect fit. I always go by this order:

1. Style- What type of shirt is it?
2. Color- What color suites me the most?
3. Size- Do they have my size?
4. Length- Do I have to worry that it might be too short or is the length just right?
5. Arms- Are the arms baggy or form-fitted? If baggy, then am I able to tighten it up?

I have been able to find many shirts that, even if it doesn't fit, I am able to bring it in to perfection. Keep in mind that altering should always be an option, especially for items that you intend to keep for longer periods of time. Some retailers even have a seamstress on duty for quick fixes or perhaps complimentary repairs to have your purchase fitting to your precise measurements.

After ranting on about the trouble one must go through in order to find the right fit, you must think that life is too short to alter everything we buy. You're probably right. Why go through all the trouble to look almost illegally amazing? Take your hard-earned money and spend it on five ugly shirts instead of two very well-tailored, high quality shirts. Like I said, I am always up for someone to challenge my (painfully reasonable) suggestions. Let's see if you can think of an article of clothing that is significantly better than apparel that offers the best fit for your own personal measurements.

Monday, December 04, 2006

High waist? High Fashion.

Stop! Ok, a little bit lower. No, no, no... Stop!!!! Well, try just one inch lower. Great, perfect. Now the jeans you have on are just a mere millimeter short of exposing your genitals. Keeps us wondering, "Why leave it to the imagination when it is right there in front of you?"

What is wrong with people to where they think that fabric that couldn't keep a gnat warm would be best for women who want to appear sexy? So many times I see people wanting to look sexier with less clothes. When someone looks sexy, shouldn't it be about their clothing choices that help maximize their physical features without showing skin? Low waisted jeans served it's purpose. As a matter of fact, they are still sexy. But, they are also redundant. Oh, so redundant. Why not explore how jeans can be sexy without being so lowcut. Then maybe people of average build wouldn't be so worried about bending over and having their Cosabella thong squeezing out of their cheeks (ahem, butt cheeks, that is). This (perhaps) new idea shouldn't allow mothers to rip out their mom jeans to reveal a more sexy side of parenting. This doesn't even mean that we should find the ugliest alternative to try to appear 'different'.

This all came about two summers ago when I had the wonderful oportunity to meet Gwen Stefani (you know, because she simply ADORES Colorado and anticipates her visits here to see me... joking, of course). I met Gwen Stefani at a BMX Biker's Birthday Bash at the Key Club on Sunset Blvd. in Hollywood, California. I approached her right out back by the No Doubt trailer (she wasn't playing, her old band was). She donned a black-lace bra, a white tank, high waisted Levi's jeans (I believe the engineered denim line) and what I was sure to be Stuart Weitzman Snakeskin peeptoe heels. She looked great. Ok, I take that back, I was shocked. The high waist was so high waist, I couldn't believe my eyes. Yet, with all of my doubts piling up one right after another, I managed to clear all judgments out of my head for the rest of the evening to ponder her decision to wear them in public. Was she crazy? Or am I old-fashioned? I live in Boulder, CO, maybe this trend had mot marked its place east of LA. But she looks... well? Surprisingly? not bad!The single-most desireably fashion-conscious punk queen has not only pioneered many fashion trends, she also has the ability to turn preposterous into possible in less than 24 hours. That's me to your left with the L.A.M.B. (Stefani's brand of clothing) herself. I wish I was able to get a body shot to show you her amazing ensemble. Regardless, her high-waisted denim gaucho knee-length had me wondering who else would do this?

Well, congratulations, Gwen, your trend has caught on. They look amazing and do not scream 'mom' in the least. I find high-waisted pants, shorts, whatever, to be such a refreshing take on an already classic style choice. Not only do High waisted bottoms cover 'it' (whatever 'it' is) up, it trashes the ability for cropped shirts and jackets to look 'revealing', allows for more stylish clasps and buttons that serve function more than just fashion, and can substitute for a shockingly effective tummy-tuck-without-surgery method. Need I say more? Please remember to dress the part. The only thing worse than a risky wardrobe choice is wearing a risky wardrobe choice with a poorly thought-out outfit (The team of 'What not to Wear' will hunt you down and murder you).

I write this as such because I believe that when eyes are drawn to the waist, we are more inclined to focus on the natural curves of a woman. It might not be viewed quite as 36-24-36, however, we can enjoy the age-old beauty image of women: the slight hourglass. As I look back at the time I saw Gwen, I think quietly to myself, "why is she so daring and then successful in what she does?" The answer is simple. Women who play with new and fresh ideas create a legacy. Regardless of who you are and where you came from, if you have it in you to pursue something so different and so pleasing, you can create miracles within the world in which you live. So, become a pioneer! Stray from the mainstream, implement old ideas into fresh ones and delegate fashion trends to a state of popularity and relentless abundance!

Monday, November 27, 2006

The Golden Age of Glamour: The Roaring 1950's

There must be some sort of inspiration for each season to produce a collection so bold that it strictly plays on a 1950's motif. Everything we see these days has some sort of element that plays with a significant trend that shook this era. Although not played on by all designers, a subtle touch of the 1950's can be spotted in almost everything we see.

In an attempt to investigate such a fascinating (potential) conspiracy, I have researched the corners of all book stores, the furthest reaches of the internet and skimmed through millions of pictures displaying nostalgic 50's era clothing, accessories, etc. Amidst my discovery, I have come to a stunning realization that the comeback will be huge, the date of arrival is still yet to be determined. Behold the mildly controversial haircut worn by Hollywood sensation Rosario Dawson. It would only be considered appropriate to parallel her not-so-average 'do' to the very memorable stylings of the Nototrious Betty Page. One could also easily strike this as coincidence due to the release of a movie/documentary covering the life of Betty Page. It isn't enough! We continue to witness high-waisted pants, waist belts, the roaring popularity of ballet flats , hair bands and the emerging fanaticism of knee-length boots becoming the center piece of any ensemble. These are blasts of fashion released into mainstream pop culture that have been released to send an upheaval of old- fashioned trends, reintroduced. But I swear, I am the only one who sees this.

A while back, I was torn by the dichotomy of fashion choices out there. I can shift over to a retro-styled, borderline classic or already recognized style or I can generate a newer, more controversial image by toying with more innovative fashion choices. I have to say, while I am enthralled by new styles and embrace the future to no end, I do find a sort of blinding beauty introduced by specific past time favorites. An example to better explain myself would be the ultimate of style choices introduced by Rayban: The Wayfarers. I saw these saucy specs in a fashion show, thrown together by the fantastic duo of Dean and Dan (aka DSquared). This model, although practically wearing nothing, dons a pair of Oxfords, 1950's-style squarecuts, and almost exactly identical frames that were inspired by the Wayfarer model back in 1953. I am repeatedly told by many people that the classic never dies. I could not agree more and, to display such truth, is the Wayfarer. Worn by many celebrities (including Tom Cruise and Bob Dylan), these sunglasses tend to make a cameo in almost every decade since their debut. No matter how many times they are brought back, however, it is only perhaps natural these days to accept that the Wayfarers speaks fondly of one era. Take a wild guess.

I am reminded of Betty Page once again when I flip through tabloid trash at my local grocery store and spot Dita Von Teese, a burlesque artist who best imitates the sultry and stylish forms of pin-up models of the 50's. Teese, 34, has recently released a line of sunglasses that display a style that so few people are familiar with when thinking of the 1950's. Although bulky in shape and reminiscent of the 1970's, these shades tend to play on a very accurate portrayal of sunglasses worn during the mid-20th Century. Fashion comes into play when a line of sunglasses with a (unfamiliar) brand have ties to legendary Dita Von Teese, there is much articulate detailing and well-designed, extremely good quality is present. The added bonus is just that they are, once again, reminding us that the 1950's have so much influence on fashion, even these days.

Of course, my findings may have just barely skimmed the surface of what could potentially be a very deep pool of rather nostalgic coincidences. What is important to remember is that we are all so delightfully touched by the times that this world has seen, even if we, ourselves, have not lived to experience them. What determines great style is the ability to recognize these trends and live in the times of when they were a smash hit. They bring about not only classic tales, but form new paths to excellent style and irreplaceable milestones of timeless fashion.

Monday, November 06, 2006

Raise eyebrows, then let them flourish...

After many years of perfecting the delicate nature of women, one has to wonder,"why are women trying to look fragile?" From peticoats to lace trim, soft shades of make-up to pearl necklaces, women are somewhat forced by society to appear to live a life of less strain, a façade of innocence and an image of ladylike perfection. Leave the brute and savage persona of untamed humans to the men. However, an alternative has made its presence into the runways. Very recently, perhaps cultured and released by French fashionistas, was the bold appearance of eyebrows. Always a signature look on men, these bushy eyebrows now have made its way into women crossing gender boundaries, all the while being accepted by major fashion designers worldwide.

Leave it to designers, such as Derek Lam to incorporate thick-browed women in his Fall line for 2006. He masterfully provides the sweet, intoxicating vigor of a woman's femininity and merges the elements of masculinity that will compliment a woman's face. This will give fashion a fresh image of the new woman. Delicate and tantalizing, yet a touch of virility and mystique. The rough edges offer a much needed freshness to the already tainted image of a helpless, fragile woman. How should one go about maintaining this look? Think plentiful but polished. It is important to sustain composure to any wild look. You can wow crowds with looks that break the barriers but not push the envelope. By tweezing your eyebrows to a thin pencil line, you are following the crowd. By leaving a natural line of your eyebrows, you are able to display a face you naturally have, not one that you created. With this look you can rise levels of femininity and balance out specific features that are at their best left in a state of androgeny. By keeping thick-brows, a roman nose or deep black eyelashes, we are able to be recognized by our distinct features; our signature appearance is marked by our subtle imperfections.

So, without hesitation, consider this option to bring out the best. We spend money, time and our patience dealing with what we think are our imperfections when, all along, we should focus on the benefits of our physical features. How we can bring out the natural you.

Monday, October 30, 2006

Tie and Denim: Business on the Top, Casual on the Bottom.

I have always been a firm believer in the classics. They remain in style for long periods of time, they are a truly remarkable way of displaying class, exquisite taste and distinctive elegance. Fashion always works in that different and/or newer styles are introduced and incorporated with current and past trends. The shirt and tie, for example, displays traditional dress and gives a sense of composure to any occassion. Jeans, popularized by societies youth in the 20th Century, have quickly become a staple for both men and women. The two looks together have formed a unique combination which allows for a distinct 'Casual but well thought out' ensemble. People see it. Some people wear it. Everybody knows it. So what's the big deal?

I have closely examined a look that might have seemed controversial and/or innappropriate about half a century ago. Of course, times have changed and people have toyed with the mixture of shirts, sweaters, jackets, pants and the likes. Justifying denim with a shirt and tie would be just as silly as justifying black gloves with a trench coat: it just works. I have always been fond of the shirt and tie with denim look for a number of reasons.

First of all, I find that it is always appropriate to combine a suited look with a dressed down pair of pants, such as jeans or khaki's. It is a common solution to a dress appropriate problem: When we are expected to project an image of formality yet are always subjected to a casual environment. No matter what the situation; during the day, we often encounter situations where we look put-together and have a clean edge to our societies expectations for a more casual form of dress.

Secondly, the importance of formal attire should be reintroduced to younger generations. This element will produce a sense of propriety in regards to traditional forms of dress and will allow for most of us to be brought back to the basics. Because, honestly, what good is a polo paired with a great suit jacket if it is the only thing you see nowadays? Why must we think that being formally dressed up consists of a vintage cut 3-button polo shirt and sharp polished black leather accessories? We often chuckle at the very thought of the business-attire-obsessed image of the 1980's (movies such as American Psycho prove to be a perfect example). We must remind ourselves where we have come from. Toying with the suit can be seen in collections from every corner of the fashion world: Gaultier, Issey Miyake, Moschino, Gucci, etc. This proves to be a look that we are able to play with. By incorporating chic, well-pressed shirts with french cuffs with ripped and torn denim jeans, we are able to say filthy, but fantastic. Who is writing fashion rules, anyways?

Finally, just how sexy is a crisp, fitted shirt paired with a favorite pair of jeans? It has raw sex appeal delivered in such high voltage that we often forget to examine the look piece-by-piece. One look and we are convinced! "Wow, so put together!"

We should think of it as the common, fail-proof, good-for-most occassions ensemble that should be mixed with color and attitude. We must incorporate a sense of self in this look, however. We should feel the need to personalize any outfit we bring together. A leather cuff? Grandma's cameo or a pocket square that will keep most wondering, "What is it about that person that makes me feel like he knows what he's doing?"

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

What's in Your Bag?

Millions of men and women around the world are subject to the hustle and bustle of big cities. Subways fill up with people all rushing to get from point A to point B. A woman standing on a subway platform suddenly drops her purse to reveal the contents of her bag. The zipper remains open and multiple personal belongings never to be shown to the public suddenly becomes a main attraction to even the most unsuspecting viewer. Her Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous satin lip colour, Verizon LG Chocolate, Personal/Business Agenda Book, Tampax Pearl tampons, House keys and Gucci suede gloves all hit the floor to be displayed by every passersby in that given place. What a disaster! What would prove to be more of a disaster would be that she has some item in her bag that was truly not to be shown to anyone but herself. This is probably the case for most people in the world today. Whether it be a woman or a man, a lawyer or a housewife, many people lie victim to carrying something in their bag that shouldn't be in there to begin with. What this item is will remain a mystery to everyone, until an accident such a the drop of a bag occurs. So, why are many Americans usually embarrassed to drop their bags, especially when the contents of their bags are revealed? We are all human, afterall. A tampon is no less unusual than a set of keys. Birth control is as common as tylenol, but why are we ashamed when people see us carrying them? I have an attempt to persuade millions of Americans to carefully plan what we should carry, how to carry them and what we should keep at home. This way we are able to assess the importance of carrying certain items and leaving others out of the public eye, essentially to avoid public embarrassment.

Making this rule a frequent practice will help eliminate any feeling of carrying unnecessary items.

1. Every morning, go through your bag, messenger, ataché, briefcase, etc., and check for files, papers, receipts, gadgets, personal belongings and hygenic products that are not needed for that given day.

2. Keep a mental list of everyday necessities, perhaps a specific book, your portfolio, an agenda, etc. These will be your everyday-carry basics.

3. Always allow extra room for other belongings that might not be needed for everyday and/or weekly usage. That way if you have to carry more things, you will always have room for these items.

4. Keep (at all times) a mechanical pencil, a pen, a notepad(scratchpad) of some sort, an Agenda (if necessary), your cell phone, house keys, a snack bar if it helps, a pack of kleenex, in some cases Purell hand sanitizer, Business cards (if applicable), mint gum,

For women: Wallet, (if separate, a coin purse for necessary change), A little case for quick fix make-up (foundation, blush, eyeliner,lipstick and gloss).

For men: Deodorant seems to be a common item, chapstick.

These are not necessarily musts, but they help for maintenance reasons and can help keep you fresh for the day. For all other items, think carefully as to what you might need for the rest of the day. Any unneeded items are best kept at home. Keep a light load for the day, as your daily routine of carrying heavy things might draw stress on your body.

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Don't get too comfortable with Fashion!

When it comes to dressing up or being seen in public, what often crosses our minds is the innate sense to dress for comfort. We rarely pick out the painful and wrechedly uncomfortable shoes or perhaps a pair of jeans that are 2 sizes too small. On the contrary, we sway towards a more wearable style. What we think might be fun and stylish suddenly becomes impractical and too much of a burden on our already-stressed and hurting bodies. Suddenly, waves of stylish and comfortable trends hit the streets. Celebs, trendsetters and everyone else suddenly realizes the acceptability of wearing items of clothing that strike an opportunity for the body and mind to be at ease. In other words, we are given the chance to put on comfortable clothes. We can always find ways to turn the uncomfortable into fashionable clothing choices, but are we able to, with the same magnitude and perserverance, allowed to take soft, comfy clothing and transform it into couture classics? I have gathered a list of items that I believe have taken on a ubiquitous presence when, perhaps, there was no rational purpose for its preposterously high level of popularity to begin with.

This look to the right examines the efforts of dressing for the whole body in comfort. The shoes, the dress, even down to the bag, has a comforting look to it. Nothing about this look says "painful" (except the look in itself!). I question many women who attempt to dress like this. It is as if you were attending a Psychic's Convention in Taos, New Mexico. The look says comfortable but not trying. Not even a bit. In our society, where much emphasis is put upon our efforts towards a specific outcome, we are rarely given the chance to look this bad to gain a positive and reputable impression towards others. What we think we can get away with, suddenly becomes all that we are known for.

The most excrutiating pain doesn't come from a stab of a knife or even a really bad burn from a blazing fire. It is the shoking cultural phenomenon that has swept the nation, one disaster outfit after another. I am referring to the fashion mistake commonly known as, The UGG boots. Originally from Australia, these boots are full of purpose and practicality. They protect our feet from snow and harsh weather conditions, they are made exclusively for comfort and they are a signature boot for making life a little bit easier. The only problem? The influence of many celebs have opened the flood gates for such a catastrophic trend that millions of girls patiently await their paychecks, daddy's credit card or Christmas/Hannukah/Birthday presents to receive such a thoughtful gift. Now, I cannot imagine a street corner without a girl who can tuck her Seven jeans into her UGG's for a trendy style choice. Trendy? yes. Stylish? Perhaps not. What we must evaluate when it comes to comfortable fashion is its ability to maintain both comfort and style. These colors range from bright pink to a caramel beige for a wider range of potential customers. They look great to shovel snow and they can be very practical for Northern Minnesota weather. When we start seeing these boots in Beverly Hills, however, should we probably start to ask why?

The equally-as-loud, twice as cliché uniform that has me shrugging my shoulders everytime I witness such a faux pas is the undeniably popular Juicy Velour Suit. I have to admit, its remarkably comfortable, great for lounging at home or good for errands. This look has vastly taken on women's wardrobes and has become almost a staple item in every woman's closet. The problem? When 10 million women are wearing a suit that reads 'Juicy' on it, what sort of message does that send out? At the same time, when everyone's wearing it, should this mean you should too? And, if this trend spins out of control, as it has been so far, does it just appear as though women bare a striking resemblance to pajama-clad bandits of tasteless fashion? What next, Fleece Onesies for a night out on the town? You get the point. Velour suits make the grade for practicality, receiving an A for Attainment in comfort, but a big F for Fashion potential.

I will often come across the painfully displayed, bare-it-all tactics of many risk-taking fashion goers. By this, I am referring to the hundreds of thousands of women who bare their nipples, showing a more comfortable side of their everyday dress. It is argued that it might, in fact, not be too tacky when some attempt to pull off a stunt such as this for a given occassion. With evening gowns or an artistic photo op, it could be considered acceptable. These days, however, it is almost everywhere you turn that you see a powerful pair of breasts that bare everything but support. I have seen commercials for more comfortable bras, bras that remain hidden to the public eye, as well as bras that, when shown, don't necessarily look like a bra at all. Why aren't these an option for the women who opt for a natural look? I may be cynical or old-fashioned, but underwear always seems like a good idea, not matter what the fashion trends are throughout the times. Are we becoming shallow and focusing on the outside when, more or less, it's what's on the inside that matters?

The "homely" moccasins are best kept at home. They provide warmth, durability, and of course, comfort. What I didn't understand was when I started to see many girls and women wearing house slippers or comfort moccasins out to WHole Foods or a shopping trip. Don't be mistaken! Moccasins can adapt great styles by many designers to add a touch of class as well as comfort for those who prefer casual flats over day heels. Moreso, I am referring to the traditional moccasins that grace the shelves of comfort shoe stores worldwide. Turquoise beadwork in a shape of an eagle or thick suede string that is weaved around the trim for a home-made appearance. For costumes, house-lounging, or a visit to Arizona, these make an excellent choice. Otherwise, it might be best to keep this choice of footwear in storage and/or away from your friends to avoid public mockery.

Certain choices can prove tough and time-consuming desicions. What we once thought could be deemed acceptable might be your worst mistake yet. We should take time to evaluate such decisions and realize that comfort can only take us so far before we are crossing boundaries into inpropriety. It is best that we consider our everyday attire to differ greatly from our sleep or lounge wear. Robes, slippers, sweatpants and the lack of underwear all have their time and place. If many of us follow certain standards of dress, then why should we suffer from the comfort of others?

Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Chanel: A Timeless Name in Classic Fashion

One of fashion's most prominent and world-acclaimed fashion designers, signifying style, elegance, class and sex appeal lies in the name Chanel. The brand itself has outlived any other name in the industry and has taken form to accomodate new trends, transforming styles and the reinvention of classic looks. The name is something we often hear in magazines, sometimes history books, and see flooding the streets of many big cities worldwide. There is something to a big name that must be remembered: their presence in pop culture has more importance than fine leathers and classic tweed suits. Their exquisitely-crafted apparel, rare jems and jewels on their finely-made jewelry collections and their focus on durability and unrivaled quality has been their most outstanding features in any given collection. Above all this, Chanel's ability to transform drab into a fury of eye-magnetism, head-turning, and fresh pieces was truly a remarkable milestone in the history of fashion. With this in mind, it is of the utmost importance to understand the label's historical journey through the ages in order to understand the changes between collections, the chameleonic persona that Chanel has adopted throughout the 20th century and why Chanel has become preeminent in the eyes of societies most elite, a name known to fashion connoisseurs around the globe and the ultimate for Women's Couture. In the early 20th Century, Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel opened up her first shop in Paris on Rue Cambon. Chanel had initially started as a designer of hats for actresses in France. This gained her much recognition as she moved into designing women's clothing. Due to the popularity of her hats, Chanel was able to find a place in the French fashion market, creating lines for women that were comfortable, stylish and practical. Many women chose to wear her designs, as they helped provide a favorable relationship between women and their bodies. This change also brought about a new lifestyle, played on by France's rich and famous. In 1921, Chanel No. 5 was introduced and, due to its overwhelming popularity, the following years brought many new fragrances to the name Chanel.
In 1928, Chanel introduced "the little black dress", which brought even more change to the modern woman, proclaiming a unique look to the era of the charleston and the Stock Market Crash of 1929. This was an ideal time to play with different looks, as the culture's dress of the time became flatline and bland. In the same year, Chanel introduced her tweed suit. Each suit was composed of a pencil-lined skirt, a boxy jacket, accented with black trim and costume jewelry (pearls were usually accompanied with this look). Throughout the ages, she was able to change the views of fashion for women around the world. She retired in 1939, and closed her couture house. She came back and stronger than ever, re-opened the house and finally introduced her quilted bag in 1955. This bag had gained her the most recognition, as it was demanded by hundreds of thousands of women all over the world. Interestingly enough, the quilted bag remains the ideal bag for any young woman who wishes to maintain a sense of class and style. Anyone who owns this bag will justify this hefty purchase solely due to it's ageless stylistic presence. After Chanel's death in 1971, the name continued, with no stop, to create fashionable clothes for women around the world. Later in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld took on the design team as Creative Director for Chanel. He has, ever since, maintained Chanel's image and perspecitve. Even with his ability to modify specific looks to incorporate current trends, Lagerfeld maintained Chanel's reputable image of "back-to-basics", incorporating his own looks into the brand.
Some say that the reason Chanel gained popularity was due to her presence in 20th century politics, her relations with political powers around the world and her strong sense of feminism. Whatever the case, Chanel's stance in fashion lied in many of her famous quotes. One of them reads, "Elegance is not the prerogative of those who have just escaped from adolescence, but of those who have already taken possession of their future." In looking at her collections now, we are able to better understand the history behind the name and the years and years in the making of a unique image and a woman who put it all together to give society one of the leading fashion brands that will indefinitely outlive us all.

Friday, October 06, 2006

The Importance of Prep

I close my eyes just for one minute to coordinate a prefect setting for the upcoming advertisments of Fall 2007 Ralph Lauren and/or Brooks Brothers. A quiet winter morning, the sky is overcast and lightly floating snow fills the air. The air is crisp and cold and sets the perfect occasion for a hot cup of coffee in hand on the way to your 10 am Economics tutorial. In my mind, I envision a classic east coast campus or an old campus such as Notre Dame in which the architecture is as old as the faculty. A prep school with colorful striped ties and the hustle and bustle of the early morning crew team dry land work out starts your day.

These images may stand out bold and may also provoke some distant memory of primary uniform school, boarding school, or just sunday at Grandma's house when you were younger. I have always been fond of being able to dress sharply. No matter what the occassion, I feel that a certain presence resonates over me and fills the room when I consciously pick my most distinguished looking ensemble. I am aware the levels of uncomfort oxfords can be on a daily basis, and wearing a blazer got tiresome and hot in the blazing heat of mid-june. Yet, I fondly reminisce over a time that the simple elegance and dignified manner in which I presented myself changed my overall outlook on the way I should go through the day. For instance, days in which I wore khakis, a weave leather brown belt, matching loafers and a polo, I felt more presentable and more orderly. This change of image also changed the way I interacted with others. I would sit up straight, answer questions in full and in somewhat formal English and I would avoid bad posture at all costs.
I could go on forever, breaking down points as to why I feel strongly about the importance of prep. Some of it's major drawbacks in today's society lies in that the look seems somewhat outdated and old english. Everything in the US has incorporated the word 'casual' to describe a better, laid back environment to which our stiff necks and our anxiety-filled personas can relax to a more worry-free state. Casual Friday's are brought to offices nationwide to reiterate the importance of feeling comfortable and less stressed, leaving more room for productivity. You always hear, "chill out", "relax", or how people "casually" change the subject. We are witnessing one of America's strongest weaknesses: How we have avoided the principal of order, presentation and seriousness. Our clothes have shifted as well. It has come to my attention that prep style has formed a specific stereotype that leaves individuals to think that preppy means jockish, Frat boy, pretentious or ahem... republican. While images of prep are synonymous to those of said stereotypes, I often find that to be a misconception of the highest level.

Prep offers a more composed sense of self and adheres to our traditional standard dress code. It shows cleanliness, composure, interest in higher learning and great levels of civilized behavior. We don't all have to be sticklers and walk about chin up to show a sense of dignified behavior, however, in our every day lives, it would be a great and extremely visible shift (and a beneficial one for that matter) to witness a change in behavior in many men solely from the way they present themselves through dress.

What You Should Know: Proenza Schouler

It is only so often that we come across a good idea that can stir up a frenzy of fashion followers to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars for a name that isn't, in fact, known all that well. Once in a while, we find that fresh ideas come best from fresh minds. Meet Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, two recent-graduates of Parsons School of Design. The duo has been popularized by big names within the industry and has made an immense impact on the way people will view fashion for the years to come. Thanks to certain people such as Julie Gilhart, fashion director for Barney's, as well as Anna Wintour, the Editor-in-Chief for American Vogue, Hernandez and McCollough have become a quick staple name in elite department stores, magazine pages are painted with articles and photographs of the duo and their collections, and most of their designs are often worn by numerous celebrities for red capret occassions.

The hype? One of Hernandez and McCollough's key concepts behind design was to incorporate the lost idea of quality and shape. In the attempt to recreate and repopularize well-tailored, excellently-crafted design, the brand Proenza Schouler has been able to modify shapes and intensify dull colors to magnify other aspects of each of their collections. Each collection doesn't use predictable colors in order to receive short-term wows and ooohs. On top of it all, they are able to play with proportion in order to diversify options for dress. Cropped, tapered, taken-in, shaped and modified are some terms used to describe pieces within their collections. What you would typically see lengthened would be altered in a jacket in one of their more recent collections. They play with many different fabrics, yet manage to stick with a concept that should be familiar to any fashionista: Made to fit, fit to accentuate, and accentuate to please. The only difference is when Proenza Schouler creates a collection, much of the emphasis is placed on the actual craft of the collection. What is it to place multiple hem-lines, what sort of curve will allow for a woman to feel comfortable, yet is able to provoke a waist line that is to die for, or how the trim of a blouse can drastically increase and intensify a woman's natural shape.

While most will agree that a name so new can be a risk for the amount of money spent, others will agree that challenging those around while maximizing personal efforts to dress better will, in the long run, benefit you. The exaggerated idealsitic views of many designers leave clothes to be appreciated on the runway. Proenza Schouler offers looks that help bring an idealistic view of fashion into reality. What better way to look good than to wear clothes that are made to fit and not just made to appear fantastic?

Monday, October 02, 2006

They Will See Us Waving From Such Great Heights


Working in the retail industry, I have often heard mothers and older women come into my shop, talking about some distant memory of days filled with polyester, shag rug carpeting, and bellbottoms. These women will pick up a pair of cork-wedged platform heels and say out loud, "Oh wow. I used to own shoes like this. I wouldn't have thrown them out had I known they would come back". For those of us who are not familiar with how fashion works, much of what we see will recycle itself within several seasons, if not, then in the next generation or so. We fall victim to cleaning out our closets just to find out that we have to come right back to filling them with similar items.

Well, for those who are pack-rats and file away clothes in trunks hidden in dusty attics, Congratulations! What you once thought was fashionable left and came back. In particular, Platform shoes. A mere 5-inches can really boost up a look from dull to exciting. In Spring 2007 trendspotting, Platform shoes are in full effect from lines including Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Lanvin, Prada, and Yves Saint Laurent. This can be all to reminiscent of earlier days, however, with new styles and designs for an innovative Platform shoe, many women are able to make an old concept look brand new.

Thanks to smart ways of accessorizing, people are able to refurbish old duds to polished ensembles. I have to admit, in the attempt to achieve any look besides a new and trendy one, has been to scour my dad's closet for older styles to incorporate in my own personal dress code. Platform shoes weren't on the list, obviously, however, it is always beneficial to try vintage shopping in your own house for styles before hitting the stores. My own mother has admitted to throwing away shoes from her days in the 1970's, and is often reminded by certain styles upon entering a Nordstrom's filled with vintage-styled shoes.

Even with Platform shoes soaring into popularity... once again, how can women benefit from the look of Platform shoes? One given way is to realize that high heels generate a feeling of sex appeal but are often coupled with a feeling of excruciating pain and uncomfort. Platform shoes give leeway to less heel, more height. By giving your toes some leverage, the angle in which your foot points down lessens, giving your entire foot more support. This is ideal for women who actually walk in stylish shoes from a long distance of point A to point B. Another reason for wearing Platform shoes is that these shoes give boring flat-soled shoes a rest. Platform shoes in all shapes and sizes always turn heads. These shoes are not overwhelmingly common, therefore an occassional Platform shoe can drastically change a look you currently have. They are simply just more fun than regular shoes and can come as plain as flip flops. On the contrary, high heels or flats have to be dressed with fabrics and irregular straps in order to stand out in the way that Platform shoes do.

This coming Winter and Spring, opt for Platform high heel shoes, even if the Platform estimates a little under an inch. This change will leave any individual feeling a heightened sense of style and self-confidence. New shoes will change the way you walk, they way you hold your posture and will even create a positive environment for interacting with others!

Monday, September 25, 2006

Fashion Forecasts: Men's Fashion Trends, Spring 2007

Weeks after Fashion Week in the Big Apple, specific trends have made their way into mainstream culture. A flurry of spring-toned colors and cuts, as well as fresh fabrics and mix-and-match clothing choices are hitting it big on the streets. The weather is still very permitting in many parts of the country. Why should anyone feel the need to wait for the upcoming season to jump into such hot clothes? Here are just some of next spring's hottest looks. They require an open-mind, bold taste, the ability to be reinspired by past season's and tastefully-selected vintage-inspired pieces. Here are the looks:


In Dries Van Noten's spring collection, Van Noten has incorporated a unique accessorizing technique, as well as many other designers for the upcoming season. This look introduces a new location for the belt, where a trenchcoat is worn and pulled tighter to the waist with the help of a belt. In this picture, the belt is the same color and fabric as the jacket itself. Many other designers have paired a regular trenchcoat with a rustic brown belt or a thin waist belt. This look is innovative and allows for accessories to shine brighter than the clothes themselves. Ken suggests: Stick with neutral colored belts. Browns, blacks and greys will allow for the trend to stand out, yet not scream for unnecessary attention.

This look needs no introduction. In the world of Haute Couture and street fashion, a blend of classic gentleman, savvy bachelor, true devotee to artistic expression and love for traditionalism, the waist coat (presented in the Hermes spring 2007 collection) is part of every generation's fashion musts. The look can compliment anything from a T-shirt to a cashmere sweater. This look is often forgotten, however, and is looked at as something only the true fashionista can wear. This is not the case. Try pairing a vest with your favorite white T-shirt and a pair of your most comfortable jeans with boots and you have the quinessential uniform for any man: fashion-conscious or not. Femals too! Ken suggests: To throw a more humble yet outstanding ensemble towards questionable critics, compliment your waist coat with a plaid fedora, exposing your hair. This will give your look a reinvented definition of the word 'Dapper' and will bring your street style to higher levels of chic.

Plunging Necklines are not only for girls anymore. A majority of Men's fashion has worked up to allow men a more lenient androgenous flair; the deep V-neck is just one of them. The deep V-neck has given the male chest more attention, giving men a sexier look. What better time than to introduce this look in the Spring, right? Here, Hedi Slimane hit all time highs by reaching all time lows for the plunging neckline. This look is best to pair with more masculine clothing choices, such as a crisp blazer, straight leg jeans, or worn-in, rustic boots. Ken suggests: Stay natural. If you have a bare chest, great! If you have chest hair, let it show! The waxed look is very gaudy Miami and will not be taken seriously by anyone, a naturally bare chest will do just fine.

The leather-shoes-with-no-socks look has been thrown around a lot. Yet, no one is even sure if works. This coming spring, this look has been presented in full force! Lanvin Spring 2007 collection offers cropped pants with leather shoes to tone down the high-structured formality of the suit and oxfords look. The look is fresh and timeless. While the suit may say you are getting down to business, the sockless shoes say 'I'm staying casual'. This is important as many day time looks steer away from overtly formal work wear and aim to achieve a more comfortable ensemble and less of an aggressive edge. Ken suggests: Leather shoes can be tough on the feet without socks. Try the shortest socks on the market or pull your black socks all the way up then pull them down over your sole for added comfort and more cushion. The socks will remain unseen.

A frenzy of short-shorts hit the runways for the 2007 spring collections, including John Bartlett. Bringing back elements of old-school prep and boyish charm, the short-shorts have made a tremendous comeback as many other fashion houses incorporated similar styles into their own collections. This trend is a fresh replacement of the oh-so-tired cargo short, used off and on from the end of the nineties right up through to 2006. Certain styles of cargo shorts came and went, yet overall, the shorts included baggy utility pockets, giving fashion a military twist. It will be great to finally see a change in a staple item; now most of us will be able to let our legs finally breathe. Ken suggests: Khaki Short-shorts with boat deck shoes or Romanesque sandals. A preppy flair of a big pony polo shirt may help many onlookers realize that the general ensemble isn't too feminine.

Could it be possible that man bags are here to stay? The answer is unsure, however one thing is for certain: the modern day briefcase is far more unique and more appealing than what men used to carry. A regular leather carryall has transformed into a personalized valuable item, a trademark of one's own personal style and character and breaks free from the mold of what things are to what things should be. The carryall has been a must in many runway shows, giving each ensemble a bold, manly image. As these bags take a specific shape, each design house is able to accent their bags with their signature pieces. For one, it could be a polished leather satchel or messenger with crocodile trim and brass hardware, for others it might be militaristic canvas tote with rustic leather straps. John Varvatos has taken on the latter of the two. As seen in the picture on the right, John Varvatos introduces (in his 2007 Spring collection) a much more casual bag. As an investment for true versatility and unrivaled quality, this bag can not only endure harsh weather conditions, but can also take on an alternative view of high class carryalls.

Casual grey is a phenomenal way to approach a new year as well as a new season. Most designers opt for a dramatic entrance, fluttering with a wide spectrum of colors and vibrant images painted on, amidst animal prints and luxurious fabrics. Grey has a subtle way of sneaking behind the scenes in order to turn heads dramatically. The key here is subtle. Different shades of grey give Michael Kors (picture to your right) a cool and alternative way to beat the perils of predictability and introduce the unexpected. Complimented with whites and off-whites, this color combination still keeps the most promising season of the year shimmering. Ken suggests: Head-to-toe in similar tones of grey would be overkill. make sure to switch up the grey tones in order to magnify the intensity of your wardrobe choices.

Recently mentioned by the Sartorialist, an unexpected color choice for shoes can really change a person's perspective on the outfit. A dark suit paired with brighter-colored oxfords or sneakers can allow for all the right attention to be directed your way. In Louis Vuitton's Spring 2007 collection, Marc Jacobs opted for a fresh look by offsetting an outfit, black suit vs. white leather shoes. He received all the attention he wanted. Pairing brown shoes with an unexpected suit can brighten your look and still remains timeless and effortlessly sophisticated. It is in the interest of maintaining a unique perspective in the realm of innovative fashion trends that we are constantly able to achieve bold and daring, yet pleasurable and exciting combinations of accessories, clothing and generally style for that matter. Ken suggests: Pick a color choice that wouldn't directly appeal to you and go with it. If it grows on you and others like it too, then you will be known for a having a creative fashionable kick and others will notice you too. (The Sartorialist is a blogger who writes about similar topics of street fashion here in the US and around the globe and also writes on current trends in the industry. You can find The Sartorialist on thesartorialist.blogspot.com.)